When and how should I trim my crape myrtles is one of the most common questions we see from clients year after year. These trees are a staple in Gainesville, FL landscapes, and for good reason! This long-blooming tree performs extremely well in our climate and features beautiful bark, graceful flowers, and even a bit of fall color when its leaves drop in the fall. A well maintained crape myrtle will deliver months of stunning blooms and, once established, requires little to no supplemental irrigation. What’s not to love?

When to trim a Crape Myrtle in Gainesville?
Many think that the right time to trim a crape is in the fall, once it loses its leaves. The smaller suckers and young growth may look unsightly and a neat, trim appearance while the tree is bare can be desired. In our climate we see cold snaps followed by days and weeks that are warm, and a freshly pruned tree is primed to deliver new growth. That new growth is incredibly tender and when another frost or freeze comes around, it could cause stunting and damage to the health of the tree.
In Gainesville, the best time to trim crapes in is just before spring, once the risk of freezing temperatures passes and just before new growth emerges.

What is Crape Murder?
A common phrase you’ll hear when it comes to trimming crapes is “crape murder” and what this means is that the tree has been trimmed in a way that will result in a less aesthetically appealing structure. These are very resilient trees and this type of pruning is not likely to kill it, but it is incredibly difficult, often impossible, to get the tree back to the graceful form it is intended to have.

For the health of the tree and for the long term blooms, it is actually better to leave them untrimmed than to prune them improperly.

Correct Procedures for Gainesville Crape Myrtle Pruning

In this illustration you see a 4-year old crape myrtle tree as it may appear in late winter, when still in dormancy, and before new growth has begun to emerge. This tree has been properly pruned for 3 years. At the top of the branches you will notice seed pods that formed after last season’s blooms. In studying the diagram more closely you might notice where pruning cuts were made in previous years, and that wherever cuts were made two new branches emerged from beneath the cuts.

The arrow that says '6" stub' indicates where to make cuts when pruning your crape myrtle tree. The rule of thumb is to trace down from the top of a stem (from the seedpods if the tree bloomed), to where that stem meets a branch. Using a pair of sharp bypass or lopper pruners make a cut about 8 to 12 inches or so above the intersection - never below the branching point.
Alternatively, you can grab the tip of stem and bend it over, making your cut right at the point where the stem starts to bend. The remaining branch should be strong enough to support the new branches that emerge just below your cut. Repeat this process until all stems have been cut as is shown on the right side of this diagram.

By using this method of pruning you will be promoting a fuller canopy and an increase in the number of blooms.  For a nice and tidy appearance you can prune suckers (small branches) that grew from the trunk base, and any twiggy growth that emerged up and along the main trunks.

The Right Tree in the Right Place

One of the most common reasons that we see crape murder occur is because the wrong variety of crape was planted too close to a home, structure, or other existing trees. It’s important to know that crapes range in mature size from diminutive dwarf varieties no larger than a shrub, to large trees 20-30 feet tall. If you are planning on installing a new crape in Gainesville, make sure to select a variety that will be the size appropriate to its location when full grown. This is minimize the amount of pruning needed as time passes, and ensure that a beautiful tree does not have to be removed for being too close to your home.
 

If pruned the right way and right time, you'll enjoy one of the most beautiful trees in Gainesville landscaping for years to come!

One of the most common plants in Gainesville landscapes are the Crape Myrtle tree or dwarf shrub, known for their beautiful summer colors. Their pink, white, red, and purple flowers brighten north Florida landscapes throughout the late spring, summer, and early fall. However, they are also known for getting a black sooty mold covering the leaves that may leave you wondering, "why does my crape myrtle have mold?"

The black covering isn't a mold, fungus, or disease  - it's actualy the symptom of a Gainesville landscape pest-  the crape myrtle aphid.

To control these Gainesville lawn pests (Crape Myrtle Aphids), we recommend one of three ways. However none of these will remove the sooty mold - just the pest causing the sooty mold. The black discoloration will go away as it drops it's leaves and regenerates growth in the spring.

1 - If it's late enough in fall and the temperatures are below 85-degrees, you can use Horticultural oil as a contact killer. https://www.amazon.com/Mother-Earth-Monterey-Horticultural-Oil/dp/B001R…
2 - If it's still the heat of season, use bifinthrin as the contact (quick control) and immidacloprid as a systemic (long-term) insecticide. https://bit.ly/2HxkXw9
3 - If it's just before the first frost and it's about to lose it's leaves, wait until spring and use the bifinthrin/immidacloprid mixture so that it controls them in next years growing season, as the Crape Myrtle is going dormant soon.

To learn more about our Gainesville, Florida lawn service, visit our website at http://www.themasterslawncare.com

Many people have trees in their yard, especially in Gainesville, Florida - the tree capitol of North Florida. Trees provide shade and complement landscaping nicely, but they can also cause major disputes when they fall over. A tree may fall over if it is not properly maintained and diseased, or it may fall over during a storm (like Hurricane Irma that just passed last week). When a tree falls over onto a neighbor's property, a homeowner is often left to wonder if he or she is liable. Most people assume that the person who's yard the tree was rooted in is liable since it is their tree. However, this is not always the case.

When a tree falls over onto a neighbor's property, that neighbor should submit a claim to his or her insurance company immediately. The insurance company is usually responsible for taking care of the damages. This is true if the tree fell over due to an act of nature. For example, a healthy tree that falls over during a tornado, hurricane, wind storm or winter storm would not be the responsibility of the homeowner. Since the homeowner living on the property where the fallen tree was rooted did not intentionally push the tree over, nature is responsible. This means that the neighbor's insurance policy should cover it under perils - of course after the deductible is covered.

However, there are some cases where a homeowner could be held liable. If the tree fell on the neighbor's home when the homeowner was trying to cut down the tree without a professional tree service, the damage would be the homeowner's responsibility. Also, if the tree was dying, unstable or diseased and the homeowner knew about it, he or she could be liable if it falls over on its own. He or she could also be liable if it falls over during a very light storm that would not normally knock over a tree. When homeowners know they have dying, diseased or unstable trees, it is their responsibility to take steps to prevent them from causing severe damage.

Most cases involve trees falling over due to storms or acts of nature, so many homeowners whose trees fall over do not have to worry about their insurers footing anything beyond their deductible. Also, they do not have to worry about premium increases if they are not found liable for the damages. The best way to avoid this scenario is to prevent it in the first place. Homeowners should check their trees regularly and have them inspected by an arborist at the first sign of disease or any health issues.

A professional arborist can analyze the tree to see if it needs any special treatments, pruning or complete removal. This may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it is much less expensive than the potential cost of paying for a neighbor's home being destroyed and the legal costs that ensue. For those who plan to stay in their homes for any length of time, it is best to try to keep peace with neighbors, so this is also a good way to prevent quarrels or ongoing problems. To learn more about trees and what proper tree maintenance looks like, call or text our office for a free consultation with our arborist at 352-378-5296.

Aulacaspis Yasumatsu

The Asian cycad scale, Aulacaspis yasumatsui, is an armored scale native to Thailand and southern China. Since it was found in Miami in 1996, it has spread quickly through Florida and other parts of the world on shipments of nursery stock. Asian cycad scales produce a white crust on the fronds of infested plants, making them appear as though they are snow covered. At its worst, an infestation of Asian cycad scale can completely coat a sago palm within months and cause its death within one year. The rapid reproduction of this insect – paired with its ability to infest root systems – makes Asian cycad scale among the most important insect pests of Florida.

Treatment Strategy

Although Asian cycad scale is difficult to control, insect control treatments are available that can significantly reduce populations on plants. Often living in the soil, these insects are not well controlled by contact insecticides. Instead, systemic treatments that move into the plant tissues these scales feed in are recommended. Utilizing a mixture of deep-root fertilization, used coffee ground soil ammendment, and the systemic insecticides, we have seen very good results at saving Sago Palms in Gainesville, Florida. 

How Is It Spread?

Asian cycad females lay over 110 eggs that hatch in 8-12 days. In the spring, newly emerged crawlers spread to new feeding sites by wind or other means. After feeding has started, the scale remains at the same site for the remainder of its life cycle and creates a white, waxy covering to protect itself from predators. Females go through three instars (life stages) before becoming adults 28 days after hatching. There are multiple generations of Asian cycads each year.

Susceptible Trees

Plants in the cycad family, with the most affected being the King and Queen sago palms, cardboard palms and coonties.

Symptoms

• Yellow spots on the upper surface of fronds, then fronds become brown and desiccated.

• White, waxy covering is readily visible and can coat the entire plant.

Lookalikes

None

Timing

Spring; as leaves are emerging

Urgency

High

Risk Of Spreading

High

Over 400 Species Of Aphids Feed On Numerous Hosts.

Aphids are one of the most common insects found on Gainesville trees and shrubs. There are over 400 species of that feed on numerous hosts. Aphids use theirpeircing and sucking mouthparts to extract sap from the tender, new growth of plants. While aphid feeding does not look good, it usually doesn’t cause serious damage to that kills plants. However, their act of taking the plant's new growth vital nutrients does make them look unappealing. Aphids also excrete a sticky substance called honeydew (a nice name for aphid poo) that can be a nuisance; it gets all over plants,sidewalks, vehicles, and other structures and create a black sooty mold look.

Treatment Strategy

Soil applied systemic insecticides are very effective and work from the inside of the plant to treat the plant-damaging insect. Systemic Ornamental insect controls are applied to the soil at the base of the tree where it is taken up by the root system. A contact insecticide can be sprayed and is very effective as as well, as long as coverage of the foliage is achieved.

how Is It Spread?

• Aphids overwinter as eggs on hosts bark or needles.

• In spring the eggs hatch and aphids migrate into summer hosts.

• Aphids reproduce quickly and can have many generations per year.

• In late summer eggs are laid again.

Susceptible Trees

All tree species can become infested with aphids.

Symptoms

• Curled discolored leaves.

• Plant sap excreted as honeydew making the plant sticky.

• A black fungus called sooty mold may be growing on the honeydew.

• Spots of sap on cars, sidewalks, houses, etc.

Lookalikes

None

Related/Similar Problems

Ants and bees are often found around trees infested with aphids. They are attracted to the sticky sweet honeydew that aphids excrete.

Timing

Spring or Fall

Urgency

Medium

Risk Of Spreading

Moderate

Neolecanium Cornuparvum

As its common name suggests, Magnolia scale, Neolecanium cornuparvum, is a frequent pest of magnolia trees and other Ornamentals- including Little Gem Magnolias, Tiny Bear Magnolias, and even the Cucumber Tree. These large, easily seen insects cause damage to trees by attaching themselves to the tree’s vascular system and feeding on the sap. They can kill entire branches and weaken the tree as they deprive the tree of it's nutrients. Branches are often black with mold that grows on the insects’ excrement, which is known as 'honeydew' or 'black sooty mold'. This sticky substance attracts dust and dirt from the air, often covering it's own leaves and leaves around the affectd tree with black sooty mold.

Gainesville Magnolia Scale Treatment Strategy

Treating magnolia scale requires persistence and several treatments. There isn't a one-time cure-all to solve the issue. Typically, a mixture of sprayed treatments and soil-applied systemic insecticides will have the most success in controlling this pest. Once control is reached - usually in the first year - maintenance with soil-applied insecticides is required regularly to keep them from coming back.

When Temperatures are in the lower 70's, we treat the entire tree with a horticultural oil that is pesticide-fee and provides organic-based control to provide protection to the tree. Systemic insecticides have to be used once the temperatures rise, that get soaked up by the root system. A few treatments of both in intervals typically is the best control method once the scale is causing noticeable damage to the tree.

How Is It Spread?

Magnolia scale produce one generation each year. Females produce eggs from mid-summer to fall. These eggs hatch in August through October. The young scale – known as crawlers – move to one- to two- year-old branches where they feed, grow a protective shell, and overwinter. Feeding resumes as leaves emerge the following spring, producing a large amount of honeydew. As summer approaches, the females lay eggs and then die, leaving behind their hollow brown shell that persists on the plant for months.

Symptoms

• Sticky honeydew and sooty mold on leaves and items underneath the infested tree.

• Dwarfed or stunted growth on infested twigs.

• Branch decline on severely infested branches of the tree.

Related Symptoms to watch out for

Sooty mold

Tree Health decline

Timing

Year-round

Urgency

High

Risk Of Spreading

High

Many of our clients have witnessed their neighbors and other landscape companies out pruning Crape Myrtles the past couple months and wondered if we had forgotten about them. Some have even witnessed others reducing majestic Crape Myrtles to ugly stumps, known to some as committing "Crape Murder."

When a crape myrtle is pruned back like this, it has 2 effects:

1. Reduces the number of blooms that will be produced during summer.
2. New branches will grow far too long and therefore not be able to support the weight of heavy blooms - particularly when wet. These long branches weep over and often break off during heavy rains.

When a crape myrtle is pruned properly, it has 2 positive affects: 

1. It will produce twice the number of branches and therefore twice the number blooms as it did during the previous year.
2. The new branches will be strong enough to support blooms.

We thought it would be helpful for our readers to have some tips on when and how to prune Crape Myrtles in Gainesville Landscaping to promote the healthiest tree:

• Prune late in winter, which February is ideal.
• Remove suckers from the base, crubbing and crossing branches, and any growth going inward toward the center of the plant.
• As the tree grows taller, gradually remove all side branches from the main trunks up to a height of 5 feet or so.
• Cut back to another branch, to just above an outward-facing bud on a branch, or to the branch collar (a swollen area where the branch joins the trunk). Never leave lone or clustered stubs.
• Try to remove unwanted branches before they get thicker than a pencil.
• It's okay, but unnecessary, to cut off old seedheads.

The objectives of pruning a crepe myrtle are to maintain its natural form, produce strong branches that hold blooms upright, and open up its center to reveal the multi-toned bark that forms on their trunk.

Cutting it back to thick stubs each year makes these goals impossible. A graceful tree quickly becomes a fencepost or hat rack. Pretty bark never appears. Each beheaded trunk grows a Medusa-like tangle of spindly whips too weak to hold up flowers.

Restoring a Butchered Plant

If you've beheaded a big crape myrtle to within a few feet of the ground already, there's only one solution. Unfortunately you must cut the tree completely to the ground, and don't be surprised when it grows back VERY quickly. The next winter, select three to five well-spaced trunks, and cut off any others at ground level. Follow the instructions from "The Right Way To Prune" above, and you'll have an attractive tree within five years.

If you'd like help with Gainesville Tree Trimming and Crape Myrtle Pruning in the future, call us at (352) 378-5296 or email our office at info@themasterslawncare.com. We would love to help you out!