Although the word 'pest' is typically used to describe an insect such as chinch bugs or webworms, the term is actually used to describe anything that is unwanted. (Perhaps you remember what you may have called your little sibling growing up?) In this case, a lawn certainly is not improved by being pestered with a lack of one of it's three basic needs)   When and where is drought stress the most prevalent? Imagine filling a gallon bucket with water and setting it out in your yard. When you check your bucket a week later, you’re going to find it still has water, but you’ve lost an inch or so from evaporation.  That’s what happens to your lawn and landscape plants if the evaporation isn’t replaced by rain and/or irrigation. If you had the bucket of water in full sun, it would experience more evaporation than one in the shade. Also, a bucket put out in summer would lose more to evaporation than one in winter.  All of that is to explain that drought stress is most prevalent in the sunny areas of your lawn and in the driest times of the year.     How can I identify this as the problem in my lawn or landscape? St. Augustine and Zoysia lawns are the easiest to diagnose drought stress in. Both leaves have a midvein that acts as a “spine” for each individual blade, allowing it to open and close as needed.  Healthy, well-watered grass blades will appear almost completely flat and totally open. When grass begins to dry out, the blade will close in half upon itself, to reduce its surface area to the sun and thus conserve water. This will also give the grass a “hazy” look, as the backs of the blades are not as deep a green as the enclosed fronts.   How does it occur and how can I prevent it? As mentioned above, drought stress is simply a lack of water, which is one of a lawn's 3 most basic needs.   What can I do to resolve the issue? Turn up your irrigation settings (link is a tutorial on Gainesville Irrigation settings). When I advise this, the typical response is, “But there’s an irrigation rule that says I can only water 2 days per week.” That’s completely correct. However, the frequency of the irrigation running typically isn’t the problem. Most of the time, I find irrigation timers set to run anywhere from 15-20 minutes per zone - and we recommend anywhere from 30 to 75 minutes per zone.
Related Reading: 5 Tips to Avoid Drought Stress How to Change Your Irrigation Timer Settings Tips for Watering Your Gainesville Lawn  

When and where is this landscape ornamental pest the most prevalent?

Magnolia scale is extremely prevalent among all types of Magnolia trees - the Little Gem, Tiny Bear, Southern Magnolia, and even the Japanese Magnolia. There is no specific season they are more common, although they do go dormant in the winter. Having a Magnolia tree in your Gainesville lawn almost assures at some point an infestation of scale - however, a good Ornamental Pest Control plan will keep this from happening.

How can I identify this as the problem in my lawn or landscape?

If you regularly inspect your Magnolia branches for little bumps on the branches, which is what scales seem like, you will catch them before a bigger infestation occurs. If you already have a large infestation, you will notice a black silt, commonly called ‘black sooty mold,’ (See photo) on the tops of the leaves and surrounding plants. Although many people mistake this for the lawn pest, this is simply the excretion from the scale that is damaging your Magnolia.

How does it occur and how can I prevent it?

The scales spread via the wind, so the only way to prevent them is to regularly treat your Magnolias with a strong horticultural oil or systemic insecticide.

What can I do to resolve the issue?

If you have an infestation of Magnolia scale in your Gainesville lawn, treating with a combination of systemic and topical insecticides labeled for scale is really the only answer. Our ornamental pest control program can resolve this issue for you.

If we can help you prevent Gainesville lawn pests, please give our office a call at (352) 378-5296, or email us at info@themasterslawncare.com.

Are you frustrated with Bermuda taking over your lush St. Augustine lawn? Unfortunately, there are only two options to deal with it.

Before I get into solutions, let me explain how Bermuda works. It is very invasive and spreads via seed (when mowed), stolon (above ground "runners"), and rhizomes (underground root system). It is in the grass family, so any herbicide that kills it will also kill St. Augustine grass - which is why it creates such a hassle for Gainesville lawns. 

The good news is that Bermuda and St. Augustine grasses can co-exist in Gainesville lawns and the grass can still look overall healthy. We have several clients that have found this to work for them, even if they would prefer to have a Bermuda-free yard. The bad news comes if anything ever causes the St. Augustine grass to struggle, like irrigation issues or insect damage, because then the Bermuda will immediately take the opportunity to really cover that area and will not let St. Augustine back in without being completely removed and having new sod installed.

A good lawn spray technician can utilize pre-emergent* herbicides to slow the spread of Bermuda - but nothing will stop it completely because of the runners. 

Some people love Bermuda lawns and grow it as their primary turfgrass, but you rarely see this in Gainesville. Primarily in our area, Bermuda is used for golf courses and football fields. It just takes too much maintenance and fertilizer to keep it looking healthy and lush in our sandy soils to be a good lawn grass.

Here are the two options when it comes to resolving the Wild Bermuda grass issue..  

Least Invasive Option - The key for this is to keep the St. Augustine turf healthy enough to keep the Bermuda at bay. You may have to sod any areas that are completely riddled with Bermuda to get a good start.

• Mow the lawn on your mower's highest setting. (Bermuda prefers to be mowed low, so this will help the St. Augustine grass)
• Increased irrigation times to keep the St. Augustine healthy enough to hold it's space against the invasive Bermuda grass.
• A good fertilization and pre-emergent weed control program, which we offer. 
• Lawn Insect Control such as chinch bugs and webworms. This is also a service we offer.

Extensive Option - This would involve locating any areas where Bermuda is located, even if it doesn't look bad yet, to remove and resod so that Bermuda is no longer taking over the property.

• We would recommend starting with a couple non-selective herbicide applications that will kill the Bermuda grass throughout your yard.
• Next, you would sod-cut and till the lawn to assure you remove all of the roots.
• You would apply a soil amendment such as milorganite to help the sod root quickly.
• Install the healthiest sod available. 
• Lastly, protect the sod with a lawn health program.

Either one of these plans can work if all of the steps are followed, but missing a step assures failure when it comes to Bermuda grass. I encourage homeowners to keep their lawn healthy and a little Bermuda grass will not be an issue. It's only when the St. Augustine thins out and struggles that it shows up.  If we can be of any help in this job, please feel free to call us at (352) 378-5296 or email us at info@themasterslawncare.com. 

*Pre-Emergents lay a protective barrier down on the soil that won't allow seeds to germinate, restricting Bermudas ability to spread.

In order to achieve and maintain a beautiful Gainesville lawn, you should employ the basics first - mowing at the proper height, irrigation, and protecting it with a lawn fertilization program. It is also important to ensure that nutrients can reach the soil beneath your grass. Aeration can be an extremely vital element to a healthy lawn because it allows fertilization, air, and water to penetrate the top layer of thatch and soil in your yard.

What is Lawn Aeration?

Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. At the bottom of this article is a lawn after aeration is completed showing what aeration cores look like. 

When Should I Aerate my Lawn?

The best time for aeration is during the growing season, when the grass can heal and fill in any open areas after soil plugs are removed. Ideally, aerate your Gainesville lawn in mid-to-late spring for the best results.

What are the Benefits of Gainesville Lawn Aeration?

• Improves root density
• Helps increase thatch breakdown
• Improves air exchange between soil
• Increases fertilizer uptake
• Increase lawn’s drought tolerance
• Increases irrigation absorption
• Reduces soil compaction
• Reduces water runoff

Aeration is a beneficial practice toward achieving a beautiful Gainesville lawn you'll love coming home to. If your lawn is a candidate, make it an integral part of your lawn care plan by calling our office at (352) 378-5296 or filling out the form above. Your lawn will thank you for letting it breathe again!

 

Although the word 'pest' is typically used to describe an insect such as chinch bugs or webworms, the term is actually used to describe anything that is unwanted. (Perhaps you remember what you called your little sibling in high school?) In this case, a landscape can have many pests - such as insects, weeds, disease, improper drainage, etc.

When and where is this pest the most prevalent?

This lawn disease can affect all turf - but primarily is found in St. Augustine and Zoysia lawns. In our North Central Florida market, it is especially rampant in early spring and late fall.

How can I identify this as the problem in my lawn or landscape?

It typically starts off as small patches that turn yellow and then brown, in a noticably round pattern (see 2 round spots in photo above). Patches can expand to several feet in diameter as the disease grows, and it is not uncommon to see  green healthy turf in the center of the circle.

How does it occur and how can I prevent it?

Just like any fungus, this one starts out with moisture. Whether it's excessive rainfall, irrigation, or extended periods of high humidity - it starts by the yard staying continuously wet for 48 hours or more. This is the biggest reason why it is so prevalent in spring and summer, as the high temperatures that typically evaporate the moisture aren't present in early spring and late fall. 

What can I do to resolve the issue?

• The first thing you can do is cut back on your irrigation settings to take excess moisture out of the equation. 
• A fungicide application is vitally important to resolve the issue in a timely manner. 
• Avoid mowing the affected area of your lawn, as mowers can spread the disease into other parts of your lawn.
• Do not fertilize until the disease is completely cured.

As always, if this pest is an issue in your Alachua, Newberry, or Gainesville lawn - please call our office for a lawn application to resolve it. Email our office at info@themasterslawncare.com or call (352) 378-LAWN.

In your Gainesville lawn as fall comes into town, your grass may begin showing brown circular spots that seem to be struggling. This is typically large patch disease, commonly called brown patch fungus - especially in St. Augustine and Zoysia lawns. 

This turf disease is active when nighttime temperatures range from 60-75 degrees and daytime temperatures don’t exceed 85-90 degrees. These temperatures are usually seen in the Spring and Fall. Like other fungi, Large Patch also requires adequate moisture in its environment to thrive, so be careful with your Gainesville irrigation settings.

This disease affects the blades of the grass and typically will not kill the entire grass plant. It begins as small patches that discolor, yellow then brown, as the grass blades die. An interesting display of Large Patch fungus in a lawn is the “donut effect” it may create. In diseased areas, you may see a ring of rotten grass with some green grass in its center; hence, looking somewhat like a large unsightly donut pattern in your lawn.

As ugly as Large Patch can look, it’s important to remember this disease typically does not kill the entire grass plant - and is mostly cosmetic. Over time, the rotten grass left in the wake of Large Patch fungus will naturally decompose and new grass blades will grow. Mowing will also remove the dead grass blades. It must be mentioned, though, that active Large Patch fungus can be spread easily without much effort. In the event an area with active Large Patch is mowed, make sure to clean off the tires and blades of the mower after going through the affected area to avoid spreading it through your entire Gainesville lawn. 

In order to stop the spread of Large Patch in your lawn, a fungicide application should be made. This will only stop the spread of the disease though; it will not cause the grass to grow faster or green up. New grass will grow in eventually, but this can be a slow process in the Fall, as turfgrass is heading toward its dormant period.

Keep in mind, there may be other causes for brown patches in a lawn though. Ching Bug damage from summer or sprinkler service may be needed? If you see discoloration in a lawn and aren’t sure what the cause is, contact us at (352) 378-LAWN for a complimentary lawn inspection.

We realize that the typical thought of "pest" for Gainesville lawn pest of the month would be an insect, such as chinch bugs or sod webworms. For this article, we consider a 'pest' to be anything that comprimises the health of the lawn or shrubs - such as weeds, insects, or disease.

For the past few weeks, we've gotten a couple e-mails asking about large numbers of small moths flying around Gainesville lawns and beds. Although the moths themselves pose no danger to landscape plants, the presence of the moths is a legitimate cause for concern.   It's not that moths damage the lawn though, they're just a symptom of the actual problem - which is an infestation of the Tropical Sod Webworm. 
How are moths and sod webworms related?  Very similar to a caterpillar turning into a butterfly, the tropical sod webworm turns into a moth.    Sod Webworms damage your lawn by chewing the grass down to the leafbud as it's primary source of food, causing a similar effect on the lawn as if it were scalped with a mower in random spots. If there's anyhitng St. Augustine grass does not like, it's being scalped - which causes it to turn brown.    The chewed or affected areas of the lawn typically get larger overnight, because that's when the webworms are the most active. The round pattern comes from the moth's eggs being laid in one place and the webworms eating out from that initial hatching.

Webworms are known for primarily attacking fresh-installed sod (hence the name 'sod webworm') due to sod's high levels of nitrogen in the turf from the sod farms requiring quick growth rates to re-produce sod at a faster rate. They can attack so fast that some will even ask if the webworms came in the new sod - but the abundance of moths typically show otherwise. They're also known for attacking shaded areas of lawns due to the moths residing in the trees.

Lately, however, a shortage of new sod and an abundance of moths have led webworms to focus on existing lawns rather than just new sod. So, the appearance of the moths should be a red flag, and a reason to begin carefully watching for pest damage in your Gainesville lawn. Below is a photo of a Gainesville lawn with webworm damage (the chewed leaf  edges and the remnants of the leaves after the webworm's digestion). The photo also shows grey leaf spot fungus (the grey tip on the end of the leaf causing the grass blade to curl up) which is a disease. It's a good thing this new client signed up for our lawn care program!

The second photo shows a webworm that we found in the same lawn and more of the chewed leaf blades and remnants of the digested leaves (little green balls).

Many clients have asked about prevenative treatments, but the sad news is that prevention has little to do with insecticide and more to do with limiting the amount of quick-release nitrogen getting on the lawn as it gets later in the season. Due to the amount of rainfall in our area and the lack of residual insecticides that work on webworm populations, much of the control is after their infestation is noticed. This is why it's extremely important to be on our lawn care program, as it covers not only limiting the fertilization of nitrogen to help prevent webworms, but also treating the webworm infestation when it occurs, and as many follow-up treatments as your lawn needs.

Have you noticed your lawn turning brown? or noticed moths flying when you walk through your lawn in the morning? Those are warning signs that the Tropical Sod Webworm is about to feast on your grass.

If you think your Gainesville lawn has pest concerns, please don't hesitate to contact us at 378-LAWN.  We want to help in any way we can. Below is a video from UF's extension office in Collier County, but it relevant to Alachua County as well. 

In this dry summer we are experiencing this year, there are typically only two factors creating brown spots in your Gainesville lawn - drought stress or chinch bugs. The two are actually related as well, because chinch bugs prefer to attack struggling lawns that have been stressed from dry weather. 

DROUGHT STRESS

When explaining drought stress, the common response many homeowners have is, 'How can that happen if I have a sprinkler system?' It's a valid concern. Most of our clients have irrigation systems that are running properly and are following the watering restrictions - only running them 2 days per week and watering early in the morning. So, why is their lawn struggling? It's not about whether their irrigation system is running, but how long and often it's running that matters.

Picture a bucket filled with water and left in the middle of a sunny lawn. If you were to check it a week later you’d see it probably lost about 1” of water. That bucket resembles the moisture in your soil. If you don’t replace that inch of water, gradually your soil (especially the top layer) gets more and more dry. As the temperatures rise in summer, that bucket will have more water evaporated in a shorter amount of time due to the heat.

Many times, this is counter-balanced by our summer afternoon rains that are typically very frequent. Unfortunately, this year those afternoon rains haven't come yet. Typically, a norrmal sprinkler system's settings can make up the difference between the evaporation of water and lack of rain within the water restrictions, however this summer that has not been the case. We have two suggestions to fight the drought stress until the rain comes:

1. Increase your irrigation run times. (See our blog post on changing irrigation timer settings) Instead of running :20, try :30 or even :40 minutes on each zone, depending on sun exposure and plant need. Where your lawn/plants are struggling the most, don't be afraid to double it or even triple it. Although GRU's water is expensive, your plants and lawn probably cost more.
2. Sign up for HydreTain.  Hydretain is an appicationto the landscape that improves water retention by 50%. It's a seasonal application and will help minimize drought stress in dry summer heat like this. Call our office and See this YouTube video for more info. 

CHINCH BUGS

The second factor we see damaging lawns this time of year are chinch bugs. Chinch bugs are the most destructive lawn pests we have and are also the most difficult to control - especially without the right equipment.

They damage the grass by sucking the plant's juices, leaving it looking drought-stressed. Normally, we first see the damage to the grass in the hottest and driest areas of the lawn first - many times near the driveway or sidewalk. A clump will go from green to yellow to brown in color within about a week.

If you're a DIY client, you can buy insecticide at your local home improvement store labeled for chinch bugs. We highly recommend getting the lquid product and spraying it versus using granular though, due to it's ineffectiveness. 

As discussed in the article, 'Why Chinch Bugs aren't a Cinch to Control,' many homeowners are finding that the same old products they used to buy at Home Depot and Lowe's aren't working anymore though. As the insects develop a resistance to certain products, other means have to be used to protect your Gainesville lawn, and that's where a professional lawn pest control service really excels.

A reputable Gainesville lawn spraying company has access to products beyond what the home improvement stores carry, and as an added plus, those products are also child / pet safe. Whichever way you decide to go, this time of year it is crucial for the health of your lawn to watch out for both dry soil and insect damage. They will wreak havok on your investment, and more importantly your curb appeal.

If you think chinch bugs may be attacking your lawn, contact our office today for a no-obligation lawn consultation with Joe, our lawn technician. If you feel that your irrigation system isn't functioning properly, we would love to schedule a One-Hour Irrigation Tune-up with our sprinkler technician. If we can be of help in any way, please call our office at (352) 378-LAWN today, or fill out our online request by clicking the above links. 

From May until the cooler weather of October is officially Gainesville's Chinch Bug Season – the most dangerous season for your St Augustine lawn. Why?  First, Chinch Bugs like it hot and dry – or at least they like their St Augustine turf hot and dry. Nothing is more inviting to a chinch bug than St Augustine grass dry from the lack of irrigation and baked all day under the hot Gainesville, Florida sun.  Second, Chinch Bug damage is so complete and so fatal to St Augustine turf grass that there is no recovery – your lawn is officially dead! So what are Chinch Bugs? and how do you prevent Chinch Bugs from destroying your beautiful Gainesville lawn?

WHAT ARE CHINCH BUGS?

Chinch Bugs are not only lawn pests, they are predators. Their prey is weak, suffering St Augustine turf grass – preferably St Augustine turf grass that is weak and suffering from drought stress. As a predator, their role is to remove the weak to make room for the strong. In a lawn that means destroying the struggling St Augustine grass and allow for stronger weedy species like Wild Bermuda grass and crabgrass to establish and prevail. The only problem with that is that Wild Bermuda and Crabgrass weeds are so hideous in your lawn.

CHINCH BUGS ARE SMALL BUT ALWAYS PRESENT

Chinch Bugs are small! They are about the size of a ball point pen head. They are very difficult to observe in a lawn. But they are there – almost every St Augustine turf grass lawn in Gainesville, Florida has at least a few Chinch Bugs in or near the lawn. And when conditions are good, the population can rapidly expand to thousands.

CHINCH BUGS FEED ON SAP AND PREPARE THE NEXT MEAL

Chinch Bugs feed on the sap of St Augustine turf grass and also inject a toxin that prevents the movement of water in the plant. It is an especially dangerous one-two punch for your St Augustine lawn – less sap and less water. Plus the Chinch bug is not only getting food, they are creating the next meal of hot dry St Augustine turf grass.

CHINCH BUG LIFE CYCLE: MORE CHINCH BUGS MORE FOOD

So what is created is a fire storm of activity – well-fed chinch bugs are more fertile and create more chinch bugs, and more chinch bugs create more dead grass quicker – it is a logarithmic expansion of predator and prey. This all started when your St Augustine turf grass lawn was allowed to suffer drought-stress and become weak.

st. johns water management district AND CHINCH BUGS

The obvious solution is prevent drought-stress. But, that requires the freedom to water as often and as much as weather, soils, exposure and other conditions dictate. But the SJWMD has removed that freedom and required irrigation systems only be used on a certain days – regardless of when the lawn needs water. The consequences  from such restrictions is more drought-stressed St Augustine turf grass, which of course gives us more Chinch bugs. This creates a desperate need for a Lawn Fertilization and Pest Control Program. 

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Insecticides applied Properly will Protect St Augustine Turf From Gainesville Chinch Bugs. The Turf on the left was sprayed regularly to prevent Chinch bugs - the right side is untreated.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Chinch bug damage mimics heat and water stress. However, there are three distinct symptoms that differ from having a simple drought stressed lawn:

1. Incomplete Damage – the damage seems to be selective in contrast to drought-stress damage that is equal damage over the area. Look for islands of green isolated within the damaged area. This is because the Chinch bug will feed on the weak turf first, and then attack the healthy grass last.
2. Yellow Leaves along the edges of the damage caused by the injection of the toxin. The feeding progresses from a central point and moves outward. The pattern will be dead grass ----> yellow leaves on the edges ----> healthy turf.
3. The presence of Chinch Bugs – If you cannot find any Chinch Bugs then either something else caused the damage or you don't know how to look for them. Finding the small match-head sized bugs can be difficult. Soap drenches or physically investigating the edges of undamaged turf is the best method to get a visual verification.

Warning: Chinch bugs are predators and are often a secondary causal agent. A turf damaged by drought stress, herbicides, or other stressors will be attacked by Chinch bugs first.  Our goal is to cure the cause of the stress and regardless of the primary cause, control the Chinch bugs at the same time.

PREVENTION AND CURE

The good news is that Chinch Bug populations are easily reduced with modern and safe insecticides. Since the Chinch bugs live in the base of the leaves, using a liquid insecticide is superior to granular insecticides, commonly sold at local stores. Remember that Chinch Bug activity is so lethal, the lawn will not recover and will have to be replaced with new sod if left to fight the Chinch Bugs without help.

Therefore, preventive Gainesville lawn applications during the peak seasons is better than curative applications. Preventative Insecticide applications every 6-8 weeks during Chinch Bug season will protect your lawn, just as it did in the photo above.

IN SUMMARY

Chinch bugs are here; they are not easily seen but are an ever present danger to your lawn. Chinch bugs are not pests; they are predators, preying on weak stressed turf. Chinch bug damage is so complete that the turf does not recover. It is imperative to take care not to allow Chinch Bugs to expand their populations to damaging levels.  Therefore keep your turf healthy with proper sprinkler / irrigation as often as you can and mow your turf as high as the mower will go (yes tall turf is not appetizing to Chinch Bugs). and reduce Chinch Bug populations with a modern insecticide every 6-8 weeks.

This is the time of the year when we start getting a lot of calls and emails from customers worried about dry dead spots they are finding in their yards, and they seem to be growing. Typically, this is chinch bug damage, especially if it's between April and October.

The concern is valid because chinch bugs can cause all wreak havok in Gainesville, Florida lawns.

It is important to know that chinch bugs do not die in winter. Which means In our area many think they are chinch bug-free once they go dormant in winter, but then are surprised when they have a mass invasion again the following spring if not treated properly with a Gainesville Lawn Insect Control.

Another problem is that Chinch bugs are attracted to drought stressed grass. What does that mean? It means when we have a dry spring (like this one), chinch bugs are much more prolific and can do more damage quickly.

Now is the time to treat for chinch bugs.  If you want to do-it-yourself, look for a product in the local garden section using Imidacloprid.  I know that’s a tough name to remember (let alone say), but you need to make sure that is one of the active ingredient if you are treating for chinch bugs. Another is bifenthrin. Imidacloprid will give the long-term protection, whereas bifenthrin will conduct an immediate kill if you have an active infestation. Don’t make the mistake of picking up the first bag of Ortho or Bayer with an easier name that has a picture of a bug.  Take the time to read the labels and make sure you get a product that has Bifenthrin or Imidacloprid which will create actually take care of the chinch bug

It is important to remember that Imidacloprid is a great preventative against chinch bugs, which means it is NOT effective once they are actively feeding.  You need to treat before they become active. Also, if the infestation is bad enough, you will need to apply 3-5 times over a span of 6 weeks. This will assure you kill the entire infestation. Otherwise, the eggs will live through the insecticide application (it will wash off before they hatch) and then you will have a second wave infestation. 

People often ask me why they should hire a Gainesville Lawn Treatment Company when they can just run to Lowe's and take care of it themselves? I appreciate the question, and it's very easy to answer - it's about time and expertise. Many times DIY-ers will mistake fungus for chinch bugs, or vice versa because they dont have the expertise that our technicians have who have been treating lawns for over 25 years. Mistreating a lawn one time can cause thousands of dollars in sod replacement costs. 

The other point I would make is - what is your time and stress worth? The frustration of analyzing your lawn and running back and forth to the home improvement store trying to treat a dead spot before it grows isn't fun, and it certainly isn't relaxing. Let us handle all of that for you, and let you enjoy your yard on the weekends again - knowing that it's under expert care.

If you have any Gainesville lawn or landscape questions, give us a call at 378-LAWN or email info@themasterslawncare.com.