People seem to want what they seemingly can't have. Folks with straight hair want curly hair. Those with curly hair want straight hair. Shade gardeners want more sun. Sun gardeners want more shade. My personal garden resides in partial to full shade. Over the years I have celebrated it, cursed it, embraced it and tweaked it. My landscape has gone through this process with me, indulging me, being patient with me and occasionally fighting back at me. Finally, my Gainesville, Fla landscape is all the better for it, as am I. We are at peace.
Allow me to take you on my journey. If your landscape is a shade garden, I believe that I can save you time, money and frustration. Let's take a walk and have that conversation.
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On the edge of my Gainesville pond, beside the largest waterfall, is a flat boulder that I affectionately call my "wine rock." I sit there in the mornings with coffee or in the afternoon with a good malbec, watch the koi and reflect on life.
I took this picture one day in late spring, when the morning sun appeared through the trees and perfectly choreographed the interactive dance between the hardy begonia (Begonia grandis, zones 6 to 9) and the autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora, zones 5 to 9). This only happens for a few minutes each morning, but what a spectacular way to start the day. I wouldn't miss it.
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Once you have a vision for the shape and scope your garden should take, you may find it necessary to prune, thin saplings or limb up your trees to create an environment that welcomes sunlight. If you're unable to handle the job, a local Gainesville Tree service can certainly give you a hand. You may also need to hire a good Gainesville arborist to remove trees that are detracting from the overall feel of your garden or inhibiting your sight lines. This sometimes requires fortitude, but your garden will thank you in the end.
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Some of the most effective plants for this technique are those that are translucent by nature, those that capture and diffuse light.
My favorite translucent plant is the sometimes-invasive horsetail rush(Equisetum hyemale, zones 3 to 11). Its 3- to 4-foot upright growth habit is a perfect foil for a curved or rounded sculpture, or a clumping shrub. Just be sure to contain it, lest it spread indefinitely.
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I wholeheartedly recommend that you consult a landscape professional, and that you view his or her work in other gardens, before you design and install your pond. A poorly designed water feature will most assuredly be an expensive disappointment.
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One thing to consider before installing a glass sculpture in your garden is possible breakage from overhead limbs falling in inclement weather. Assess your budget and tolerance level for loss before purchasing your glass. If you decide to invest in aglass garden sculpture, you'll get shining rewards.
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Pulling this illusion off successfully does require some skill, but here are some pointers to get you started.
- Begin by observing how shafts of sunlight pierce the tree canopy in your garden and the resulting shape on your garden floor. Is it an elongated triangle, a line or a patch?
- Leave your plants in their pots and arrange them in this pattern until the result is pleasing to you.
- Easier still, wait until the sunlight creates its unique shape on your garden floor, then trace the pattern with your potted plants.
Some of my favorite chartreuse-leafed plants for you to consider, taking into account your specific growing conditions:
- 'Sun Power' and 'Sum and Substance' hostas (Hosta cvs, zones 4 to 9)
- 'All Gold' and 'Aureola' Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra cvs, zones 4 to 9)
- 'Orange Dream' Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Orange Dream', zones 5 to 9)
- Golden sweet flag (Acorus gramineus 'Ogon', zone 5 to 11)
- Scotch moss (Sagina subulata 'Aurea', zones 3 to 9)
- 'Skylands' Oriental spruce (Picea orientalis 'Skylands', zones 4 to 8)
Note that most plants with chartreuse foliage require at least several hours of sunlight to perform properly.
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What's a shade garden without at least one hydrangea? Before buying your hydrangea, do some quick research on the types best suited for your location.
The oakleafs and mopheads are better suited for shade, while the paniculatas require sun to reach their blooming potential. 'Little Honey' (Hydrangea quercifolia 'Little Honey', zones 5 to 9) combines the best attributes for our discussion in that it can take shade or partial sun, and has chartruese foliage and white flowers. Another one of my favorites is 'Incrediball' (Hydrangea arborescens 'Abetwo', zones 3 to 9). Its nondrooping 12-inch flower heads are real showstoppers.
Some plants with variegated foliage for you to consider are bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla, zones 3 to 8), 'Patriot' hosta (Hosta 'Patriot', zones 3 to 8), 'River Mist' Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium 'River Mist', zones 4 to 9), and 'Floating Clouds' redbud (Cercis canadensis 'Floating Clouds', zones 5 to 9).
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LED lighting has come a long way in just the last couple of years and is extremely cost effective over time. Buy the best-quality lighting you can afford. Cheaper lighting will end up costing you more in the long run, in terms of both replacements and energy use.
Most important, decide which focal points should be illuminated and which ones are better left to daylight. There is a fine line between just enough lighting and too much. Consider the seductive beauty of shadows and darkness to gain the most from lighting your garden.
I've seen way too many DIY lighting projects that end up looking like the Las Vegas strip. If you aren't gifted with an eye for design, please consider having your system designed and installed by a licensed landscape professional with whose work you are familiar.